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Isle of Wight Travel Guide Series

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  • Writer: MemorySeekers
    MemorySeekers
  • Dec 29, 2020

We enter the museum at 49 Doughty St, next door to Dickens actual home, this cleverly allows for the shop and cafe to leave his actual property undisturbed by modern distractions.


Watch our full video guide here or continue with our blog version.




It is a typical Georgian terraced house which was his home from 25 March 1837 (a year after his marriage to Catherine) until December 1839. So less than 3 years.

We visited just before Christmas and the whole property has been dressed for a wonderful victorian Christmas.




Let’s move room by room starting in the basement.





The kitchen would have been Catherines domain, an accomplished cook and housekeeper; she published a book of recipes in 1851 entitled What shall we have for dinner that gives us insight into the sort of food the dickens would have eaten. Features things like lobster cutlets, rabbit curry, rice dumpling and mashed and brown potatoes. They also loved cheese and many recipes feature this ingredient.



December would have seen a hive of activity in the kitchen with food that we class now as traditional christmas fare, like turkey, plum pudding and mince pies actually being eaten all year round.



A hedgehog might well have been seen in the kitchen to eat insects that were constantly attaching the food. Hygiene was very important to victorians.


By the time Charles and Catherine left Doughty St they had three children under the age of three and employed four servants.




The preparation room as its name suggests was for preparing food and storing dry goods, as well as a place to store domestic items like candles. This property did not have gas lighting so they would have replied to oil lamps and candles.




The room is dressed to show some of the wonderful treats and puddings and jellies that would have been created here ready to head up to the dining room.


Through the window you can catch a glimpse of the wine cellar that Charles used to lavish fine wines on his guests but more importantly it was a cool dark place to store his rare Madeira wines.



This tiny wash house is where clothes and water was heated for the house. The brick cooper in the corner had a copper bowl and wooden lid heated with coals underneath.



Interestingly Dickens mentions a cooper in A Christmas Carol where the Crachet family boiled their christmas pudding.




Heading up the ground floor we arrive at the front door and grand hallway that dickens once walked. The museum holds a large collection of personal belongings, portraits, and original manuscripts, and you can see some of these on the hall walls and in the corridor. Here his cane, a bag, and money purse amongst other things.



The 8 day chiming clock made by London clockmaker John Bennett is still in working order today.


Just off the hallway is the lavis dining dress today for Christmas day.



Charles was only 25 when he moved into the house, his fortunes changed from his early life and becoming a literary sensation, this dining room would have been an ideal place for intimate social occasions, to wine and dine journalists, authors and many leading artists. Catherine would have been a busy, glamorous hostess juggling family life with the fame her husband was gaining. They rented the property for £80 a year on a three year lease.








Moving into the Morning room, this was used mainly for Catherine and the Children. She would deal with household matters, spend time with the children, welcome visitors or write a letter. Charles travelled all the time and so Catherine would write to him. Many of the letters give us a sense of how happy they were in those early days. Of course we know they would ultimately separate in 1858.


There are young portraits of the couple in this room. You can also see some personal items of Catherines including a copy of her recipe book.




The elegant staircase takes us from the hallway up to the first floor,

The phrase Deck the Halls, meaning to decorate for christmas has been put into practice in the house and here on the banisters as they are dressed in holly ivy and bows. Victorians would often collect or buy greenery to make garlands, centerpieces and door wreaths for the festive period.



On this floor, we have the drawing room and study and here you can cross back into 49 Doughty street so see an exhibition called Technicolour Dickens a new addition to mark the 150th Anniversary of his passing including new colourised portraits.



The exhibition shows how images of Dickens were consumed and circulated throughout his life and following his death. As well as clothing, personal items and descriptions by those who knew and saw him.




After dinner guests would retire to the drawing room for drinks and entertainment. Dancing, music amater dramatics and parlour games were popular pastimes for the dickens. The christmas tree is set in this room, decorated in handcrafted wooden decorations and presents neatly wrapped under the tree ready for the big day.



The original reading desk that Dickens used when delivering his public readings can be viewed in this room. He designed it himself and even took it on tour with him to America in 1867.




The study is probably the most important room in the house. In this room Dickens completed Pickwick Papers, wrote Oliver Twist and Nicolas Nickleby.

Filled with a vast collection of books, many now showcasing his life's work, Charles had a strict routine, writing from breakfast till lunch he might then visit his club or work on one of his charitable ventures or even take a long walk.



The desk and chair are from a later property he owned and was purchased into the collection from a private owner in 2015. Writing on this desk Charles wrote much of his later works, Great Expectation, A Tale of two Cities and his final unfinished work, Mystery of Edwin Drood.


Moving to the second floor,we arrive at the small dressing room of Charles. Here he washed and shaved and dressed himself. He always dressed well and commented how you feel better when so. This court suit is this only surviving example of Dickens clothing and he only wore it once for a special occasion hosted by Edward Prince of Wales.











The Dickens bedroom is dominated by the grand 4 poster bed, Catherine gave birth to Mary and Katy in doughty street they would ultimately have 10 children by the time they separated in 1858.



On the vanity desk are articles relating to the separation and a serpent ring owned by Catherine. There is a large mirror in the room, Dickens was known for impersonating his fictional characters to get to know them better, he may well have done so in front of this one.



The Dickens room experienced a tragic event in THe Mary Hogarth room. Mary was Catherine’s sister and lived with them for a year. After a theatre trip Mary returned home collapsed and died of a heart failure.



This shocked the household and affected Charles for the rest of his life. As a result of Hogarth's death, Charles missed the publication dates for The Pickwick Papers and Oliver Twist.



Also in this room is an open draw relating to the Death of Charles.

This includes a copy of his unfinished work as mentioned earlier, a lock of hair and the remains of a rose that was placed on his grave.




Moving on from this sad room we climb the last flight of stairs to arrive in the nursery and servants quarters. The children slept and played in this room. Charles was an affectionate father, and spent as much time as he could with them when not traveling. He had fun nicknames for each of them.




Part of the nursery is taken up with artifacts from Charles difficult early life. His father was sent to prison for debt in 1824 and Charles at the age of 12 was forced to work at warren’s blacking factory. He pasted labels and tops on bottles.



The servants quarter was a basic but spacious room and the house maid would have slept in here. The walls are littered with quotes from Dickens campaigns for the working class.




Charles Dickens Died at the age of 58, on the 8th June 1870 having suffered ill health for many years. He is buried in poets corner at Westminster abbey.




If you would like to visit 48 Doughty St then visit this website www.dickensmuseum.com for further details and booking information.


You can also watch out full video virtual guide to his home



Updated: Dec 30, 2020

Think of the Isle of Man, and you probably think of motorsport and the TT motorcycle race. Whilst this has been part of the islands history for the last 100 years, put that aside and see the true beauty that exists on this 33-mile-long,13-mile-wide island in the middle of the Irish sea.

Travelling from London Gatwick, EasyJet has a well-timed flight leaving early evening, meaning you can arrive, sleep and be ready for a full day ahead. The return flight is equally late, making this a good place for a full weekend break. Providing you live near Gatwick I guess! The Manx airport is very well connected from other parts of the UK and Ireland so where ever you are coming from it should not be hard.


Flying not your thing? Then ferries also arrive from Belfast, Dublin or Liverpool.


Transport around the island is an interesting one. Choose from a hire car, bus service, steam train or electric tram, even horse drawn tram if you are in Douglas.


Full Travel Guide Video on YouTube> IOM >>>>>>

 




Douglas is the Capital and largest town in Manx.

Our hotel was the lovely Inglewood Guest House, booked via Booking.com it has a high rating and was excellent.

Clean, comfortable and with a great breakfast!





Having stayed on the promenade during this visit, would I do it again in hindsight? Probably not and for no other reason than there are prettier places around the Island that I discovered. You will see!


Having researched before the trip it was clear that there are many activities, attractions, walks, and scenery to be seen. Clearly on a 48 hour break you cannot do everything but the following is a collection of our experiences in that time!



 

1. Peel Castle, Peel



A Viking stronghold, Peel Castle stands on St Patrick's Isle, linked to the town of Peel by a causeway. The rugged coastline and the ruins of the castle outer walls make this an interesting stop.






 


2. Niarbyl Bay


Down a long winding lane, past the cafe and steep hill, you arrive at Niarbyl Bay.

Secluded and quaint, you suddenly feel like a fisherman from years gone by.






There are fantastic views of the Calf of Man and the mountains of Ireland on a clear day. Interesting to know that the fisherman's cottage was also used in the film Waking Ned.





 


3. Magnetic Hill

Find the magnetic stone, put your car in neutral, release the break and wait.....

Your car starts to roll back up a hill being dragged by a magnetic force. Or does it?




 

4. The Calf of Man


Calf of Man is a 2.50-square-kilometre island, off the southwest coast. It is separated from the Isle of Man by a narrow stretch of water called the Calf Sound.



There is a cafe and some rugged walking trails too keep you occupied, and on some days you can see the seals basking on the rocks





 


5. Cregneash

A small charming village with a tourist museum, seen on map above.

Home to a flock of the rare four-horned Loaghtan sheep, much of the village is made up of a living museum with the small white cottages forming the exhibits. Inside the victorian farming and fishing equipment is displayed and demonstrated.





Very quaint village that can get busy at times as coaches stop off on the way too or back from the Calf of Man.






 

6. Isle of Man Steam Railway


Starting in Douglas and steaming east to Port Erin via Castletown this narrow gauge railway is a must do attraction. The scenery is stunning and is a superb way to spend an hour or so chugging along the countryside.




Top tip, buy a one or three day explore card from £17 as it allows for travel on all public transport, heritage steam and electric rail and is the cheapest way around! https://www.gov.im/categories/travel-traffic-and-motoring/bus-and-rail/go-cards/go-explore/




 

7. CastleTown - Annual World TinBath Championships


CastleTown is the former Capital of Manx, and is home to Rushen Castle. The narrow streets and fishing cottages make this a delightful place to walk around.



In early July ( and by coincidence) when we visited the town was hosting the Annual Bathtub races.

Great weather, a fun and exciting vibe made this a real joy to watch. £3 entry into the harbour area covered supporting the event.


See Bathtube Championship Video here >>>>>


Even without the event there is lots to do, with the castle, Lorne house and just a generally lovely place to walk around.



 

8. Ballaglass Glen


The Isle of Man has many a Glen to explore and we randomly picked Ballaglass.

We picked well, although I am sure they all have something special to offer.




A lovely glen to walk through, a nice wooded area with the river flowing through the middle of it with some fantastic waterfalls, and there’s a fairy house hidden along the river too. Plenty of quirks for kids too like the wizard statue along one of the paths.







 

10. Manx Electric Railway

Running from Douglas to Ramsey via Laxey this has to be the most picturesque heritage railway (tramway) I have ever been on.

We were blown away by the length and scale of this line and just how closely it hugs the coastline along the 17 miles.




We were already at Laxey looking at the Waterwheel so only experienced the ride to Ramsey and back. However this was a 1 ½ hour round trip of just beautiful scenery.

The turn round in Ramsey is 30 minutes and to be honest that’s all you need. Just enough time to walk to the sea front get an ice-cream and be back on board.

Remember this is included in the explore ticket so part of that great value £17 daily charge!









 

11. The Great Laxey Wheel

The Great Laxey Wheel, dominated the local skyline, and is a masterpiece of Victorian engineering.



Built in 1854 to pump water from the attached mine, Lady Isabella as she is known is the largest surviving wheel of its kind in the world.

Open from April to Nov, between 9.30 to 5 pm each day. Entry is £8


Top tip, if you are staying for a few days consider the explore card that includes entry to all heritage sites this is £34 a day and could be good value if you plan to visit many attractions in one day.

We also found out that if you are a UK National trust member then all heritage sites are free to enter due to a reciprocal agreement.




A climb to the top offers panoramic views across the Laxey Valley and if you wish to stay longer there is a walking trail into the Glen Mooar Valley.




With a hard hat you can walk a short distance into the dark wet and damp mine shaft and see what working conditions were like for the miners.










 

12. Snaefell Mountain Railway




Starting in Laxey and part of the Manx Electric Railway, the Snaefell Mountain Railway offers daily services to the summit. Be sure the check the website for timetables and note that it’s only one small carriage so spaces are limited.

Return tickets are £12 so again I mention the explorer day pass for £17 is better value if planning other trips.





For 45 minutes you wind your way to the Island's only mountain, Snaefell’s summit, breathtaking views await.

If you like to walk get off at the Bungalow, the only stop on this 5 mile journey. From here you can walk the rest of the way up.

At 2,036 feet above sea level, on a clear day you can see England, Ireland, Wales, Scotland, the Isle of Man, of course.





 

To see our full video guide to the Isle of Man click below





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