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  • Writer: MemorySeekers
    MemorySeekers
  • Dec 29, 2020

We enter the museum at 49 Doughty St, next door to Dickens actual home, this cleverly allows for the shop and cafe to leave his actual property undisturbed by modern distractions.


Watch our full video guide here or continue with our blog version.




It is a typical Georgian terraced house which was his home from 25 March 1837 (a year after his marriage to Catherine) until December 1839. So less than 3 years.

We visited just before Christmas and the whole property has been dressed for a wonderful victorian Christmas.




Let’s move room by room starting in the basement.





The kitchen would have been Catherines domain, an accomplished cook and housekeeper; she published a book of recipes in 1851 entitled What shall we have for dinner that gives us insight into the sort of food the dickens would have eaten. Features things like lobster cutlets, rabbit curry, rice dumpling and mashed and brown potatoes. They also loved cheese and many recipes feature this ingredient.



December would have seen a hive of activity in the kitchen with food that we class now as traditional christmas fare, like turkey, plum pudding and mince pies actually being eaten all year round.



A hedgehog might well have been seen in the kitchen to eat insects that were constantly attaching the food. Hygiene was very important to victorians.


By the time Charles and Catherine left Doughty St they had three children under the age of three and employed four servants.




The preparation room as its name suggests was for preparing food and storing dry goods, as well as a place to store domestic items like candles. This property did not have gas lighting so they would have replied to oil lamps and candles.




The room is dressed to show some of the wonderful treats and puddings and jellies that would have been created here ready to head up to the dining room.


Through the window you can catch a glimpse of the wine cellar that Charles used to lavish fine wines on his guests but more importantly it was a cool dark place to store his rare Madeira wines.



This tiny wash house is where clothes and water was heated for the house. The brick cooper in the corner had a copper bowl and wooden lid heated with coals underneath.



Interestingly Dickens mentions a cooper in A Christmas Carol where the Crachet family boiled their christmas pudding.




Heading up the ground floor we arrive at the front door and grand hallway that dickens once walked. The museum holds a large collection of personal belongings, portraits, and original manuscripts, and you can see some of these on the hall walls and in the corridor. Here his cane, a bag, and money purse amongst other things.



The 8 day chiming clock made by London clockmaker John Bennett is still in working order today.


Just off the hallway is the lavis dining dress today for Christmas day.



Charles was only 25 when he moved into the house, his fortunes changed from his early life and becoming a literary sensation, this dining room would have been an ideal place for intimate social occasions, to wine and dine journalists, authors and many leading artists. Catherine would have been a busy, glamorous hostess juggling family life with the fame her husband was gaining. They rented the property for £80 a year on a three year lease.








Moving into the Morning room, this was used mainly for Catherine and the Children. She would deal with household matters, spend time with the children, welcome visitors or write a letter. Charles travelled all the time and so Catherine would write to him. Many of the letters give us a sense of how happy they were in those early days. Of course we know they would ultimately separate in 1858.


There are young portraits of the couple in this room. You can also see some personal items of Catherines including a copy of her recipe book.




The elegant staircase takes us from the hallway up to the first floor,

The phrase Deck the Halls, meaning to decorate for christmas has been put into practice in the house and here on the banisters as they are dressed in holly ivy and bows. Victorians would often collect or buy greenery to make garlands, centerpieces and door wreaths for the festive period.



On this floor, we have the drawing room and study and here you can cross back into 49 Doughty street so see an exhibition called Technicolour Dickens a new addition to mark the 150th Anniversary of his passing including new colourised portraits.



The exhibition shows how images of Dickens were consumed and circulated throughout his life and following his death. As well as clothing, personal items and descriptions by those who knew and saw him.




After dinner guests would retire to the drawing room for drinks and entertainment. Dancing, music amater dramatics and parlour games were popular pastimes for the dickens. The christmas tree is set in this room, decorated in handcrafted wooden decorations and presents neatly wrapped under the tree ready for the big day.



The original reading desk that Dickens used when delivering his public readings can be viewed in this room. He designed it himself and even took it on tour with him to America in 1867.




The study is probably the most important room in the house. In this room Dickens completed Pickwick Papers, wrote Oliver Twist and Nicolas Nickleby.

Filled with a vast collection of books, many now showcasing his life's work, Charles had a strict routine, writing from breakfast till lunch he might then visit his club or work on one of his charitable ventures or even take a long walk.



The desk and chair are from a later property he owned and was purchased into the collection from a private owner in 2015. Writing on this desk Charles wrote much of his later works, Great Expectation, A Tale of two Cities and his final unfinished work, Mystery of Edwin Drood.


Moving to the second floor,we arrive at the small dressing room of Charles. Here he washed and shaved and dressed himself. He always dressed well and commented how you feel better when so. This court suit is this only surviving example of Dickens clothing and he only wore it once for a special occasion hosted by Edward Prince of Wales.











The Dickens bedroom is dominated by the grand 4 poster bed, Catherine gave birth to Mary and Katy in doughty street they would ultimately have 10 children by the time they separated in 1858.



On the vanity desk are articles relating to the separation and a serpent ring owned by Catherine. There is a large mirror in the room, Dickens was known for impersonating his fictional characters to get to know them better, he may well have done so in front of this one.



The Dickens room experienced a tragic event in THe Mary Hogarth room. Mary was Catherine’s sister and lived with them for a year. After a theatre trip Mary returned home collapsed and died of a heart failure.



This shocked the household and affected Charles for the rest of his life. As a result of Hogarth's death, Charles missed the publication dates for The Pickwick Papers and Oliver Twist.



Also in this room is an open draw relating to the Death of Charles.

This includes a copy of his unfinished work as mentioned earlier, a lock of hair and the remains of a rose that was placed on his grave.




Moving on from this sad room we climb the last flight of stairs to arrive in the nursery and servants quarters. The children slept and played in this room. Charles was an affectionate father, and spent as much time as he could with them when not traveling. He had fun nicknames for each of them.




Part of the nursery is taken up with artifacts from Charles difficult early life. His father was sent to prison for debt in 1824 and Charles at the age of 12 was forced to work at warren’s blacking factory. He pasted labels and tops on bottles.



The servants quarter was a basic but spacious room and the house maid would have slept in here. The walls are littered with quotes from Dickens campaigns for the working class.




Charles Dickens Died at the age of 58, on the 8th June 1870 having suffered ill health for many years. He is buried in poets corner at Westminster abbey.




If you would like to visit 48 Doughty St then visit this website www.dickensmuseum.com for further details and booking information.


You can also watch out full video virtual guide to his home



Updated: Feb 3, 2021

We fell in love with Lviv during our 10 day travel adventure in April 2019, so we decided to head back there for New Years celebrations. This is our winter guide to Lviv, but with so much to see and do it's over two episodes. We hope you enjoy it.





Updated: Jan 7, 2021

The 1986 disaster has been well documented and the recent renewed interest following the HBO mini series has highlighted people’s appetite in understanding what happened and how the area is still affected. Surprisingly, if you speak to local people in Kiev most will tell you they have no interest in visiting the zone, and few have done so. This may also be because the tours do cost quite a bit of money.

Many companies offer tours for one or more days from Kiev, and tripadvisor or google will bring up a long list. Note that you cannot visit the exclusion zone on your own, you MUST be on a guided tour. There are military checkpoints and passport documentation that needs to be completed before your visit. This all forms part of the overall cost of the tour. We chose https://www.chernobyl-tour.com and paid $USD 99 including a lunch and a geiger counter. Charges vary on certain dates, check the website for full cost details and remember you need to book in advance due the passport information being checked.

The Tour

We have created a full video on our YouTube channel about Chernobyl so make sure you watch this in addition to this blog. Chernobyl Tour Video>



Leaving Kiev at 8 am from a meeting point near the main train station, it's about a 2-hour drive to the first checkpoint of the exclusion zone. Depending on the day and number of bookings for the tour, you could be in a small minivan or a full-size coach.


Grab a bottle of water or toilet roll before you enter the zone!

Wait time at the checkpoint is around 30 minutes and this is necessary for the officials to check tickets and view your passport. Yes, you will need to take that with you as its essential to get in to the zone.





You will then be tagged with a radiation monitor but if you choose it you can also get a geiger counter for an additional fee which most people seemed to do. As we found out this was fun but annoying because it would go off all the time. What did we expect, we are in the most radioactive place on earth!








At this point I wanted to mention the toilet situation.

There are very few places that you can stop, as you can imagine this is an abandoned zone, with some high-risk areas. Toilets are at the checkpoints and vary between horrible to disgusting, so be prepared. There are no facilities to wash hands in the zone apart from the food canteen so bring sanitiser and toilet roll with you. Where possible try not to need a number 2!



Zalissya

Inside the 30km exclusion zone the coach stops at the first abandoned town Zalissya

We were given 20 minutes to roam freely around the town which once boasted a school, palace of culture, supermarket and homes for some 3200 people.


Kopachi

Torn down and buried as an experiment Kopachi was the only town to have this fate. A kindergarten building is all that remains? Authorities thought that burying the town would reduce the radiation quicker. In fact, it pushed the isotopes deeper into the soil and contaminated the water table further making the situation worse. Why the Kindergarten was left, I don't know.




Duga Radar System

Hidden in plain sight the Duga Radar System was not actually part of the Chernobyl disaster, apart from being inside the exclusion zone. In fact, it did not even draw its power from the power station.






Created for use during the cold war it was a system designed to detect missiles from the West namely the USA. There was another duplicate system in Siberia

Displayed on a map as Chernobyl 2 and mentioned as a children’s activity camp the facility was located in a wooded area some 7Km from Pripyat but very visible due to its 150 m height.





Now a derelict blast from the past, it’s extremely interesting to visit the eerie area still high with radioactive readings. An army barracks is also positioned near by and forms part of this leg of our overall tour.


Reactor 4 Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant

Having seen the disaster unfold on the news, and the subsequent documentaries, nothing prepares you for being right in front of the reactor. It was hard to comprehend that we were there some 33 years after the event.




Now with its new containment sarcophagus fitted in 2017, radiation levels have reduced but the decommissioning of the reactor and the other 3 continue and will do so until 2064.

We spend around 10 minutes in this area and the guide explained much about the first hour of the disaster.


30 incredible people sacrificed their lives for the rest of us in Europe and more should be made of their heroic actions. I was stunned to only be finding out about their critical intervention on this tour.

The monument outside the reactor honour's them on the 20th Anniversary.



Workers Canteen

As I mentioned the reactors are still being decommissioned and a worker’s canteen provides food for them and the tours. We ate the same menu provided to the workers. Salad, bread, soup, chicken and potatoes.





Pripyat

Pripyat was the workers town prior to the disaster. Some 45,000 people lived here.



Our afternoon on the tour was dominated by a walk around the abandoned town. If you ever wanted to find out what it would be like to just up and leave a place for 30 years and see what happens then Pripyat is the closest you will get to this. As shocking as the tale of delay and miscommunication that lead to the evacuation some 36 hours AFTER the disaster, it was extremely interesting to see how nature and the local animals have regained and taken over control of this area.




Pripyat Hotel

Probably the most famous structure in Pripyat is the Ferris Wheel and bumper cars.





Brand new and due to open for the May Day celebrations after day after the disaster it was never really in operation. Shockingly on the morning after the disaster and before the people of Pripyat were aware of the radiation, the local authorises started the wheel to distract the children.

Radiation levels under the Ferris Wheel are some of the highest in Pripyat (still safe). Apparently due to a missed spec of radio active material not cleared by the liquidators.


Do I have any radiation particles?

3 times during our day tour, you need to pass through this radiation unit. It can detect if you have picked up any radiation particles on your clothes or shoes etc.

Very rarely this can happen and to avoid you taking it out of the exclusion zone you would need to be decontaminated.


Before leaving the exclusion zone we get to pass by the actual town of Chernobyl which is about 7 KM away from the actual reactor. The workers that are decommissioning the power plant stay here but cannot live there due to restrictions. Many people sleep in the town in the week and return to Kiev for the weekend or some other rotation avoiding spending to much time in the zone at a given time.



Chernobyl Town sign


As we leave the zone and head back to Kiev we pass the Chernobyl Liquidators Memorial, near the fire station. A final reminder to the firemen, workers, miners, and liqidators that risked or lost there lives to save the rest of Europe.


We have created a full video on our YouTube channel about Chernoybl so make sure you watch this in addition to this blog. Chernobyl Tour Video>>>>>


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